ypets.com

Housebreaking A New Puppy

admin — Wed, 07 Apr 2010 15:40:02 +0000

Although it doesnt sound like the most appealing job in the world, housebreaking a new puppy will play an important part in bonding with the newest member of your family. It will teach you patience and leave you with a better understanding of what your puppy wants once he has learned. In addition, he will learn acceptable behaviors and exactly what is expected of him to live happily and comfortably in his new home.

Its important to remember that, just like a small child, a puppys attention span is very short. When you teach a young child not to hit, he likely wont learn the lesson the first time, but instead, gradually after youve shown him repeatedly that its not okay. Similarly, you will have to be consistent with your dog when training him. Also, when housebreaking your puppy, keep in mind that he is not intentionally being a bad dog; he just has not yet learned what behaviors are acceptable!

Start housebreaking your puppy with a simple feeding schedule. Give him breakfast, lunch and dinner, just as you would yourself. By doing this you will be helping him become regular with his bowel movements. Once he has eaten, wait 20-30 minutes and then take him outside. Watch how long it takes before he is able to void. This will give you an idea of how long to wait the next time you take him out. (Within about a week, you should have his schedule down.) Try to never let him eat at free will, leaving food in his bowl all day, because it will cause him to have accidents and make housetraining all that much more difficult.

Despite the old rules of training a puppy, you should never hit, rub his nose in his messes, or yell at your puppy. By doing this, you are telling him it is bad to relieve himself at all! In addition, most dogs respond negatively to aggressive and mean behavior and it has the opposite effectthey regress in their training rather than advance. Instead, while housebreaking your puppy take him straight outside when he has an accident. In addition, dont forget the praise! Every time he goes where hes supposed to, praise him lavishly, and soon he will begin to understand exactly what brings praise, and what brings that disappointed face. During the process, dont forget that full control of the bladder and bowels wont happen until 16 weeks of age, so dont expect too much from your puppy in the beginning.

Also helpful in housebreaking a new puppy is to buy a stain remover/ odor relief spray. Household cleaners and sprays cannot be smelled by dogs; only those made for animals will work. When an accident happens, clean the mess and spray immediately. This will cover the odor left and your puppy will not try to mark his territory there again.

Remember that housebreaking a puppy is a big responsibility that can lead to you and your puppy sharing a special bond. Giving encouragement and lots of love will make all the time spent worth your while!

About the Author

This article courtesy of http://www.train-your-pup.com

HorseandRiderMatch.com Introduces Personal Web Pages!

admin — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 15:40:02 +0000

Leading horse classified website, HorseandRiderMatch.com introduces Personal Web Pages, for individuals and organizations in need of an inexpensive website. The professional look of the web pages is designed with the horse enthusiast in mind. With a Personal Web Page you can have a place to list all your horses for sale, horses in training and horse related services, at a low cost and with a website that is easy to maintain and can be updated at any time. You also get a free, hyperlinked ad in the Personal Web Page directory. Every day a new web page is displayed as the Web Page of the Day, so you will have a link to your web page on the home page of HorseandRiderMatch.com!

Not only is HorseandRiderMatch.com offering inexpensive web pages for horse professionals, but it is also offering a free web page to every 4H horse club. With this new feature HorseandRiderMatch.com is quickly becoming the top 4H club resource. HorseandRiderMatch.com also plans to be offering free listings for all 4H clubs in the country soon.

Paving the way into the future of all horse related websites; HorseandRiderMatch.com is matching people to horses, horse professionals to horse people and 4H horse clubs to the horse world. With its innovative technology, professional, ad-free horse classified website and interesting, helpful articles for every part of horse ownership, never again will a horse enthusiast be without a friend on the internet!

About the Author

**Restrictions apply to the free web page for 4H clubs. Must apply and be accepted, no guaranteed acceptances. For more information please visit HorseandRiderMatch.com.

Horse Training: Who’s Way Is The Right Way?

admin — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 15:40:02 +0000

2004 Andy Curry
All Rights Reserved

The more I listen to others, read books on the subject, look at different articles, and watch and listen to tapes, the more I discover how different people claim their methods of horse training are the correct ones.

I often find one trainer will adamantly oppose a technique where another will adamantly swear by its effectiveness. Even more interesting, each has his or her own reasons why.

On one hand, I find it fascinating that trainers think their way is truly the correct way. On the other hand, I get a sick feeling in my stomach when I think other people are persuaded to believe those trainers who push their methods as “the only one”.

Why?

Because I’ve discovered a percentage of the horse owner population think what they learned is all that’s available. The problem with that is this: Not every horse will respond to the technique in the same way. Then, a different approach is needed. If the horse handler doesn’t know another technique, he is now limited to knowing something that doesn’t always work.

But why wouldn’t a trainer believe his is correct? After all, if it works for him then it IS correct…for him.

Personally, I don’t subscribe to any one trainer’s ways completely. For example, if trainer “John Doe” taught his method and said “do it just like this” chances are I wouldn’t. I have my own things that work and some them are similar to or the same as what John Doe does.

I’m a BIG advocate of learning all you can from everyone who has something good to show you. Never, never, never learn one person’s techniques and be satisfied. If you do, you will miss out on some of the neatest techniques ever. You limit yourself and what you could REALLY do.

Although I push what I know, I’ll be the first to admit I don’t know it all and that you MUST learn all you can.

Even if you learn different ways, then you must proceed with caution because some of the things you learn will seem hard to grasp. Sometimes, they’ll seem unreachable. At times, they’ll seem ridiculous.

Let me cite a couple examples.

A while back, I ordered a video of a trainer from Germany. His name is Klaus Ferdinand Hempfling. The video is called “Coming Together”.

Unfortunately, this video is more than a bit abstract. It doesn’t teach a whole lot but what it does teach is a bit unusual.

Now don’t get me wrong. I’m not putting down the video. Actually, I kind of enjoyed it. Still, when it was over, I felt like I was left hanging.

This trainer uses his body to establish leadership, friendship, and trust. Briefly, he describes what he does but you don’t really get how it all fits together.

Clearly, the horses he works with have a connection with him. But his style of training is quite unorthodox compared to much of what I’ve seen and read.

Could the average horse owner do what he does and do it effectively? I’d have to say “no” because his methods would require him to be right there with you for weeks (months?) training the trainer. Not only that, much of what Hempfling explained on tape seemed so abstract. It wasn’t easy understanding all his principles.

The worse part is once you’ve watched this you may think to yourself you could never do what he does so why try to be a horse trainer. That’s one of the things that worry me about aspiring horse owners and trainers.

They see someone getting results with horses using seemingly “not from this world” techniques. Then they silently say to themselves, “What’s the use…I could never do that.”

Luckily, there are powerful alternatives. I’ll explain in a minute or two.

Another I’ve studied is a man named Henry Blake. Blake is from Ireland (I think) and grew up with horses all his life. He claims to have a gift with horses that transcend human understanding. After reading his book, I am inclined to agree with him.

Blake even created a dictionary to help us humans understand what the horse is trying to communicate to us. It’s fascinating.

One part in Blake’s book talks about ESP with his horses. Blake contends he can get his horses moving, stopping, and turning with just his thoughts. He doesn’t claim to do this with any horse, only particular ones. Especially if they are Thoroughbreds.

When I read Blake’s take on the ESP thing I tended to discount it. Then again, I have had the ESP experience with my Paint horse. She and I are particularly close and there is a connection between her and I that transcends words. I don’t claim to steer her left and right or stop her with my thoughts but there have been times where she’s done something I wanted her do and I swear I didn’t say or do a thing. Gives me chills when I think about it.

Anyway, Blake’s book is fascinating reading. I’d suggest anyone read it who is into horses. One part that really grabbed my heart strings was when his horse ran to greet him after not seeing him for months. That story, to me, is the ultimate in having a horse as a friend.

So far, it still isn’t clear who we should listen to. Should we follow Hempfling’s horse training methods? Should we follow Blake’s? Who should we listen to?

My suggestion is learn all you can from everyone you can. Use what works for you. Be careful to make judgments about a horse trainer’s methods before understanding “why” he does what he does.

For instance, I am a big fan of Jesse Beery who was a famous horse trainer from the 1800’s. His methods are so easy and straight forward you’d think they’re too easy.

Beery pushes control and obedience and uses techniques to nurture it – some people don’t agree with his methods. My response to that is “learn all you can…use what you want”.

But for my money, Beery’s methods are unbeatable. They are easy to do. They train a horse so well that safety is the biggest benefit – for what good is it to have and ride a horse if you get seriously hurt?

You can learn more about Beery by listening in on Andy Curry’s free teleseminars. To find out when the next one is, go to this web address:

http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/teleseminar_signup.htm

How does one get a horse so safe with Beery’s methods? Simple. Beery shows how to get control and obedience from your horse. Without control and obedience, you won’t have a horse you can trust. If you can’t trust your horse, your horse will know it. You then put yourself in danger and risk getting hurt – even to the point of ending up crippled.

But with Beery’s methods, you practically eliminate all risks. You transform your horse into a tractable, manageable, valuable horse that’s the envy of anyone who rides him. Not only that, Beery shows how to eliminate numerous bad habits.

His methods are straight forward, easy to do, and best of all…they are NOT abstract. You won’t be saying to yourself, “I don’t get it.”

In fact, Beery’s methods are so well thought out, tested, and proven that you can train a horse to “Whoa” under any condition, and under any excitement.

What’s so special about that? “Whoa” is the most important command a horse must know. Especially, if you are a horse owner aged 30 to 60 because we tend to “hurt” and “break” a lot easier and faster than when we were younger.

If you can’t control your horse to stop while fence posts are whizzing past you when you’re riding a out of control horse, you risk severe injury, danger, and perhaps…death. Having a horse that will stop under any condition despite any excitement is, in my book, training that everyone’s horse should have – period!

About the Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author
of several best selling horse training and horse care books.
For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com.
He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training
methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm

Horse Training Voice Commands

admin — Sun, 04 Apr 2010 15:40:02 +0000

2004 Andy Curry
All Rights Reserved

To the uninitiated, voice commands for the horse are nothing more than words. But to the horse they are only sounds.

Obviously, horses cannot speak our language. Since they cannot speak our language we should think through what we say to them when we want certain responses from them.

Take the word “whoa” for instance. I have no doubt this is the most abused word in the human/horse language. When the rider says “whoa” then the horse should know to stop.

But the problem is this. Often the word “whoa” is said when the rider wants the horse to slow down…not stop. Before you know it, the rider has conditioned the horse to slow down at the word “whoa” instead of stopping. Then the rider can’t understand why the “stupid” horse won’t stop when he says “whoa!”.

Telling your horse a command when you mean for it to do something else is lying to your horse. You never lie to your horse because the results you get will not be what you want. Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800’s, knew this well and was the first to say “don’t lie to your horse”.

Thus, when you say “whoa” to your horse, you must only say it because you want to stop…not slow down.

Also, when using voice commands be sure to use simple words with as few syllables as possible.

Thus, if you want a horse to back up then say “back”. If you want him to walk then say “walk”. If you want him to trot then say “trot”.

Next, when using voice commands be sure to associate an action with the command. For instance, let’s say you’re teaching your horse to gallop at the command “gallop”. So while in the round pen you use one of your aids to teach him to gallop. So first you say “gallop” then bring in the aid to motivate his movement to a higher speed.

If you want to teach your horse to walk then start your horse around the pen in the opposite direction from which you taught him to gallop. When he’s gone around several times, stop him, and pet him. If he goes too fast use the word “walk” and have him go slower by making a slight move to the front of him.

Lastly, I’m a big advocate of being careful how you talk to your horse.

If you use commands that sound threatening (by yelling a command), you can actually increase your horse’s heart rate, frighten and confuse him, and he may take longer to learn.

For instance, a popular command to teach a horse is the word “step”. When driving a horse, using this command means for the horse to move forward…take a step. When teaching it, be careful not to yell the command because it may be perceived by the horse as a punishment.

But if you calmly say “step” you will get better results than if you yell it. Often times, when a horse isn’t “getting what you want”, there’s a tendency to get frustrated and thus, mad – and your voice volume can escalate. Then you’re back to sounding threatening and perhaps your horse will take even longer to understand what you want.

I’ve seen where horses were being taught to drive where the owner taught the word “step”. When teaching it, he would loudly say “STEP!”. It wasn’t long before the horse was actually balking. Then the owner was getting frustrated and kept repeating his command even louder…as if the horse couldn’t hear him.

It reminds me of a show I once saw on television. One english speaking man was talking with a spanish speaking man. The spanish speaking man knew no english. The english speaking man was trying to communicate with the spanish speaking man. After a minute of obvious noncommunication, the english speaking man spoke slower and louder. Unfortuantely, the spanish speaking man didn’t understand english whether or not it was spoke loud, soft, fast, or slow.

In summary, use short words. Use the word when you want a certain action – only say the word when you want that particular action. If you want your horse to slow down then say something like “easy”. (Don’t say “slow” because he may take it for “whoa”.)

Next, associate actions with commands and calmly talk to your horse. Horses can hear very well and yelling command will not make the command any more clear – if anything, it will frighten and confuse him.

About the Author

Horse Training Techniques From The 1800’s – What’s Old Is Ne

admin — Sat, 03 Apr 2010 15:40:02 +0000

Was he the world’s greatest horse trainer of all time? Would his picture be in the horse trainer’s Hall Of Fame? Perhaps.

His name was Jesse Beery. Before he was twenty he became a world class horse trainer. He was so well known, there were more people who heard of him than didn’t.

Jesse Beery learned how to train horses almost entirely on his own because there were few people who knew how to train a horse.

Beery’s parents discouraged horse training as a career but later okay’d his passion. From then on there was no stopping Beery from achieving greatness.

Beery’s first inclination to train horses happened when he drove a horse and buggy to a friend’s house. As Beery exited the buggy the horse spooked and ran home. During that long walk home Beery was determined to make his horse stay put.

As he worked with his horse he discovered ways to get a horse to do what he wanted. Although nearly killed in training incidents and laughed at from friends and neighbors, Beery soon became THE authority on horse training.

Beery’s methods solved numerous problems with horses that seemed unsolvable. If a horse was hard to shoe, ran away, pulled while tied, spooky, and more…Beery knew how to fix it.

As if his accomplishments weren’t enough to keep him busy, Beery wrote a Horse Training manual describing how to do what he did. Unfortunately, few copies exist today and those that do may be hard to read due to the poor condition of these very old books.

Beery’s book may be available in used book stores if one is motivated to search. Be prepared for a time consuming search – but if a Beery book is found in good condition, be ready to pay a handsome price.

There may be an alternative. Beery’s book was recently revived by horse trainer Andy Curry. Curry discovered Beery’s book in a used book store by accident.

Curry says, “This is one of the most amazing books I’ve EVER read about horse training. Beery explains his methods so clearly it’s like he’s there with you…holding your hand…showing what to do. Every responsible horse owner should have a copy of this book – period!”

About the Author

Search Engine Submissions Made Easy! (Part 1)

admin — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 15:40:01 +0000

One area of search engine marketing that has changed dramatically
over the years is submissions. Submitting to the search engines
used to be so complicated, with having to choose between manual
versus software submissions, only being able to submit so many
pages a day, having to be careful about oversubmitting, and the
list goes on.

Submissions used to be the worst part of the search engine
optimization process, at least for me.

Now, I can literally write this whole article in two words:

Pay Inclusion

Yep, there you have it. If you want to take the headache out of
submissions, and, if you want to make things much easier for YOU,
use pay inclusion!

It’s hard for someone like me to admit how powerful pay inclusion
programs are, because I’ve been in this “game” long enough to
remember when everything was free. So, moving into the pay realm
has been a difficult thing to do.

However, the benefits of pay inclusion far outweigh the cost.

Benefits of Pay Inclusion

* Your pages are indexed much faster than submitting through
free add URL or waiting for the spiders to find the pages on
their own.

* By using pay inclusion, your pages are getting outside of
the 95%+ spam that the engines say come through free add URL
submissions.

* With pay inclusion, your pages are respidered on a very
regular basis, depending on the engine. For example, Inktomi
and Fast respider their pay inclusion pages every 48 hours.

* With pay inclusion, you never have to submit your pages again!
As long as you continue to use pay inclusion, your pages will
continue to get respidered based on each engine’s schedule.

* Because your pages are respidered on a regular basis without
your doing one single thing to initiate this action, you can make
changes to your pages today and begin to see the results of those
changes within a week. If you didn’t use pay inclusion, you may
not see the results of the changes for a month or two.

* If you use pay inclusion, you’re forming a “partnership” with
the search engines, which I personally feel is important and very
beneficial. You’re now outside of the realm of the millions of
spammers and that’s exactly where you want to be.

* Most of the pay inclusion programs offer some sort of
submission reports.

* Pay inclusion programs are ideal for dynamically generated
sites.

Now that we’ve looked at the benefits of pay inclusion, let’s
create an example to see how inexpensive it really is. Let’s say
we have a brand new Web site, and we have three main pages that
we want to submit through pay inclusion.

Pay Inclusion Programs

Inktomi
(Provides secondary search results to engines such as MSN and
HotBot) < http://www.positiontech.com/directSubmit.htm >

Benefits:

* Upon submission, your pages will make it into the Inktomi
index within 72 hours, as a general rule.

* Your pages are respidered every 48 hours.

* The term of the pay inclusion program is 12 months.

* Reporting services are included, such as verification of page
acceptance; refresh reports; URL validation; and account
management.

* Here’s the audience reach of some of the engines that use
Inktomi’s secondary results, according to Nielsen NetRatings in
October 2002: MSN: 28.1%; Overture: 5.4%; LookSmart: 3.0%; (also
provides results to the “new” HotBot)
< http://www.searchenginewatch.com/reports/netratings.html >

* Cost? $39 for the first URL, and $25 each for additional URL’s
up to 1000. So, the total cost for our three pages would be $89.
(See Special Note at the bottom of this article on how you can
save 20% off the price of Inktomi and Fast pay inclusion for a
limited time only.)

Fast
(Provides search results to AlltheWeb, Lycos, and HotBot)
< http://www.positiontech.com/directSubmit.htm >

You can use Position Tech to submit your Fast pages too, so be
sure to enroll in both pay inclusion programs at the same time.

Benefits:

* Upon submission, your pages will make it into the Fast index
within 48 hours, as a general rule.

* Your pages are respidered every 48 hours.

* The term of the pay inclusion program is 12 months.

* Reporting services are included, such as verification of page
acceptance; refresh reports; URL validation; and account
management.

* With Fast, you can choose between several different programs,
including some that include a free onsite search engine, bulk
inclusion, etc.

* The audience reach of Fast, according to Nielsen NetRatings in
October 2002, was: Lycos: 4.4%; (also provides results to the
“new” HotBot)
< http://www.searchenginewatch.com/reports/netratings.html >

* Cost? $34 for the first URL, and $16 each for additional URL’s
up to 1000. So, the total cost for our three pages would be $66.
(See Special Note at the bottom of this article on how you can
save 20% off the price of Inktomi and Fast pay inclusion for a
limited time only.)

Teoma and Ask Jeeves
(Provides results to Teoma, Ask Jeeves, and HotBot)
< http://ask.ineedhits.com/ >

The only way to get in the Teoma index is through pay inclusion.
This is one engine that doesn’t have a free add URL page.

Benefits:

* Upon submission, your pages will make it into the Teoma and Ask
Jeeves indices within 7 days.

* Your pages are respidered every 7 days.

* The term of the pay inclusion program is 12 months.

* Reporting services are included, such as click-through
reporting.

* The audience reach of Teoma/Ask Jeeves, according to Nielsen
NetRatings in October 2002, was: Ask Jeeves: 10.3% (also provides
results to the “new” HotBot)
< http://www.searchenginewatch.com/reports/netratings.html >

* Cost? $30 for the first URL, and $18 each for additional URL’s
up to 1000. So, the total cost for our three pages would be $66.

Special Note:

After writing this article, I found that Lycos is offering a
discount on both Fast and Inktomi pay inclusion programs for a
limited time. If you submit to both engines, you can receive a
20% discount! I don’t know how long this will last, but here’s
the URL:

< http://insite.lycos.com/searchservices/select/
select_overview.asp?co=undefined >

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Robin Nobles, Director of Training, Academy of Web Specialists,
(http://www.academywebspecialists.com) has trained several
thousand people in her online search engine marketing courses
(http://www.onlinewebtraining.com) and is the content provider
for (GRSeo) Search Engine Optimizer software (http://www.se-
optimizer.com).

Horse Training Secrets For Busy Horse Owners Short On Time

admin — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 15:40:01 +0000

Picture this. You’re late for work one day. You look at your watch and notice you have about three minutes to feed your horse before you have to leave. Plus, it seems to worsen every day. You notice your life getting busier and you have little time, if any, to spend with your horse.

Should you sell him? Should you keep him? What do you do.

It depends. If you only want a pet that eats a lot of hay, then you can keep him if it is affordable. If you want to ride him but you know you won’t have time then consider selling him. (Ouch!)

However, if you know you will eventually have time to ride then you can keep your horse “tuned up” by doing some “quick and easy to do” horse training maneuvers on him.

For instance, you have about two minutes to feed your horse before you go to work. So you rush outside and get some hay for him. Just before you feed him you get beside him and practice his backing up.

Backing him up is a great way to keep him “tuned up”. Why? You get your horse to move. When you get your horse to move you earn more and more of his respect. Getting a horse to move is using the horse’s psychology to get it in his brain that you are the boss. The chief. The head-honcho.

There are more exercises to do than just backing.

Say you have a horse that won’t come to you. The reason he won’t is likely because of fear or doesn’t trust you.

But for the next few weeks go feed your horses with a halter and brush in hand. Horses love to be brushed. Once you get it in his head that seeing the halter means pleasure you will almost never have trouble getting him to come to you.

Here’s a good one many people don’t know. When you go to feed your horses whistle loudly if you can. If you whistle a certain way and if you’re consistent in the way you do it…then you can usually call horses in from an open field and they’ll come a runnin’.

Want another tip? Try this.

Before you feed your horse, approach him and pet on his withers. Assuming you are standing on his left side poke your finger into his flank (around the rib/hip area). Hold it there. If he doesn’t move, increase the pressure and hold it. If he doesn’t move, increase the pressure even more and hold it. Repeat this process until he moves away from the pressure.

When he moves reward him with a petting on the forehead. Do it a couple more times then repeat on his right side.

Doing this teaches the horse a couple things. First, it teaches him to move away from pressure. Since pressure is a tool we use to communicate with the horse, we want him to know how to move away from it.

Secondly, you are doing ground work of teaching your horse to move his hindquarters away from you. Thus, when you sit on the saddle and apply pressure with your boot in that same area, you have primed him to move away from that pressure – he moves his rear end away from your foot.

This is a tremendous tool to not only disengage a horse’s hindquarters, it is also part of how to teach a horse to sidepass.

There are more “quick to do” horse training tips you can do. These are but a few examples of what you can accomplish even if you have just minutes a day.

About the Author

Horse Training Gets A New Face Lift From A 108 Year Old Hors

admin — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:40:01 +0000

If you have a passion to learn all you can about horse training, then you will want to know about a 108 year old horse training manual recently revived from a dusty old book shelf of a used book store.

This horse training manual was written in the late 1800’s by a then world famous horse trainer named Jesse Beery.

In Beery’s manual he explains the different steps it takes to train a horse to be gentle, safe, reliable, and valuable.

Although this is a very basic example, Beery describes the number one abuse of a command given to horses by their riders. The command is “whoa”. The reason this command is so abused is because the rider will often say “whoa” while riding when they want the horse to slow down.

Very quickly, the horse associates the word “whoa” with slowing down instead of stopping. Soon, the frustrated horse owner wonders why his horse won’t stop when he says “whoa”.

Beery reminds the reader to say “whoa” ONLY when you want the horse to stop. Pick a different command for the horse to slow down.

Furthermore, Beery explains with great detail how to teach a horse to stop – even under any circumstance. This lesson, according to Beery, is THE MOST important one of all.

Beery also describes in his book how to cure different vices a horse may have. For instance, if a horse is a confirmed biter and has been for a long time, Beery gives clear instruction on how to stop it for good.

Even better is the instruction Beery offers for horses that jump fences. In the book, you see a picture of a simple apparatus put on a horse to keep him from jumping. Beery says “When this simple appliance is on your horse, he can lie down and get up, eat, or do anything but run fast or jump. This is the best, most reliable, and safest remedy that has ever been devised for fence jumpers.”

Unfortunately, this book is rare enough that few copies exist. The copies that exist are not always readable due to fading and age. Thus, good copies are very pricey.

American horse trainer Andy Curry discovered a legible copy from a used book store on a dusty shelf. Curry was able to make copies available to horse owners who want to learn about Beery’s methods

About the Author

Horse Training For Napping Horses

admin — Tue, 30 Mar 2010 15:40:02 +0000

2004 Andy Curry
All Rights Reserved

If you ever rode a horse that would stop and refuse to go forward then you would know how absolutely annoying it is.

Why do they stop? Because that’s their reaction to a worrisome or unpleasant situation. Even nervous and timid horses can stake themselves to the ground because they are apprehensive about leaving the herd or the barn.

What other reasons are there for napping? One is the horse simply doesn’t know what to do. They’d rather stop and stand than move forward. If your horse naps in a place he’s familiar with (ie. your home area) then you should check your tack for things like a bad fitting saddle. The pain could finally become unbearable and the horse simply won’t move.

Often, horses will react to bad fitting tack by rearing or bucking. So when tack is bad fitting, napping is a pretty good alternative compared to rearing or bucking.

Another place a horse may nap is riding around an unfamiliar area. If he naps during this then it’s likely he’s doing it out of fear. The same can be true if he sees unfamiliar objects.

A secret tip about nappers is to closely observe where they’re napping. If you find they get nappy around certain things then you might spot a pattern. For instance, every time your horse rides by a hay tarp and he stops then that is likely your culprit. But it could be lots of different things. It could be bushes. Trees. Dog pens. Etc.

When trying to solve napping from fear, you should take the approach when working with a spooking horse. A horse that spooks needs to be treated kindly. He shouldn’t be forced into stepping over his “fear boundary”. You have to talk to them, pet them, and be patient.

It just so happens that this is one of the easiest and most effective ways to solve the napping problem. The tradeoff is that it also takes the most time. But so what? Horse training is about patience.

So what do you do? Simply sit in the saddle. You’ll want to give your horse enough rein to stretch his neck but don’t give him so much that he can graze. Then you simply sit there until he decides to move forward. Don’t let him go left or right. Don’t let him back up or turn around and head home. Don’t kick him. Don’t yell at him.

You are telling your horse it’s okay to stand still but he doesn’t get to anything but stand there or move forward.

At some point the horse should move forward. When he does, give him plenty of reward.

The results from waiting for your horse to move forward are far better with patience and kindness than trying to force your horse to move. Sure, it may take a l-o-n-g time for him to move but he’ll eventually feel safe enough to do it – or he may get bored just standing there – and you should know that boredom and feeling safe are almost the exact same thing in the horse’s mind.

Next time you take your horse out and he naps it may take half the time for him to move. Then the next time it may only take a few minutes. It’s kind of like the old rule of training. The more you work on it the lesser time it takes.

What do you do while you’re patiently waiting for your horse to move? If you’re with friends then warn them before hand this may happen. You may have to sit there and have a conversation. If you’re by yourself bring a crossword puzzle or even a book. Do what it takes for you to pass the time and not get impatient.

Just remember to treat it like you would a horse that’s spooking. Most of the time, napping is a reaction to spooking. You simply have to be patient and wait it out.

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Horse Training Facts And Maxims All Horse Owners Should Know

admin — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 15:40:01 +0000

To the uninitiated horse owner, there are timely facts about horses they should know. In fact, when someone first gets a horse these timely facts should be studied and learned.

These timely facts come from the Jesse Beery horse training manual. Jesse Beery was a famous horse trainer from the 1800’s. Interestingly, Beery’s training methods are as powerful today as they were when Beery was alive.

Timely Fact #1:

Make your horse your friend, not your slave.

Timely Fact #2:

Almost every wrong act of the horse is caused by fear, excitement or mismanagement. One harsh word will increase the pulse of a nervous horse ten beats a minute. Hoses know nothing about balking until forced into it by bad management. Any balky horse an be started steady and true in a few minutes. I never found one that I could not teach to start his load in fifteen minutes and usually in three.

Timely Fact #3:

Intelligent horsemen have learned that kickers, biters and balkers are natural results of abuse, that not one horse in a hundred is vicious until made so by cruelty; that whipping a horse is as mean and senseless as whipping a baby, and that the most useful, obedient and long lived horses are those treated from birth with kindness and common sense.

Timely Fact #4:

The whip is the parent of stubborness, but gentleness wins obedience. There is no such thing as balkiness in a horse that is kindly treated, and that gets an occasional apple, potato or sugar from his master’s hand.

Timely Fact #5:

When a hose is afraid or excited, quiet him by kind words and caress. An excited horse is practically crazy and to whip him is dangerous, foolish and cruel. I have known a single blow of the whip to balk a spirited horse. Whipping a balky horse is barbarous and only increases balkiness.

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